Saturday, June 11, 2016

Detecting CSS position: sticky support

If you're using modernizr for other things, by all means use that. If you just need a simple check to see if the current browser supports position: sticky, insert this javascript code:

var positionStickySupport = function() {
 var el = document.createElement('a'),
     mStyle =;
 mStyle.cssText = "position:sticky;position:-webkit-sticky;position:-ms-sticky;";
 return mStyle.position.indexOf('sticky')!==-1;

positionStickySupport will be true if it's supported. You should use the following CSS:

.myElement {
 position: -webkit-sticky;
 position: -ms-sticky;
 position: sticky;
 top: 0px;

Of course you can set top however you want. If you're wondering, the -ms-sticky is for future-proofing. As of this writing, Microsoft plans to support the feature in Edge, but it's not clear whether they'll use a prefix or not. Safari uses -webkit. Opera has it implemented in pre-release form without a prefix, and Firefox already supports it without one.

It would have been possible to use the CSS.supports() functionality, but Safari 6-8 support position: sticky but not CSS.supports().

Here is the one-liner version:

var positionStickySupport = function() {var el=document.createElement('a'),;mStyle.cssText="position:sticky;position:-webkit-sticky;position:-ms-sticky;";return mStyle.position.indexOf('sticky')!==-1;}();

Thursday, May 12, 2016

OpenVPN Server Setup Made Simple

For those not familiar with it, OpenVPN is probably the best and most secure VPN protocol out there at this time, with clients available for every mainstream platform. Unlike most other VPN protocols, it uses shared keys rather than passwords for security, which does make initial configuration take slightly longer.

But the real problem used to be that the process of setting up an OpenVPN server and generating appropriate keys was long, tedious, complicated, and error prone.

Those days are gone. There are now scripts that do all the hard work of setting it up and configuring users and keys for you. Answering a few simple questions, in a couple minutes you can have it up and running on your Linux server, and using all the current best practices to boot.

There are two use cases, and there are scripts for each, supporting at least Debian/Ubuntu/CentOS, which are both based upon the earlier work of Nyr:
  1. A multi-user, secure OpenVPN server, with quasi-anonymous usage.
  2. An OpenVPN server for personal use, supporting 3 simultaneous connections and potentially older clients.

In case one, use Angristan's script. To get it, run:
wget --no-check-certificate -O
In case two, use jtbr's script, which is a lightly modified version of Angristan's.
wget --no-check-certificate -O
You can click through to the link to see the extra security measures being taken by these scripts.
For either case, now simply run it as root after adding execute permissions:
chmod +x
sudo ./
For case two, if you want to change the number of simultaneous clients allowed, simply change the line max-clients 3 to the appropriate number before running, or remove it altogether for no limit.
The first run will set it up, and add the first client key (.ovpn file, which is placed in your home directory). Subsequent runs allow adding or removing clients or uninstalling. The generated client keys need to be (securely!) copied on to the clients' devices and imported into their OpenVPN clients. Once it's on their computer, this is usually drag and drop. For iPad/iPhone, I found the easiest option to be to use iTunes File Sharing to save to the OpenVPN Connect app. Then they can connect at will.
You're all set!

These scripts enable clients to access the internet and appear as if they are coming from the server's IP, a typical road-warrior setup; and depending upon the location of your server, to allow clients to access the server's local network. To allow VPN clients to connect to each other, or to allow access to the clients' network, then you'll need some additional routing configurationmore help here.

Especially if you're using a VPN for anonymity, you should also put some effort into ensuring your clients don't have any IP leaks (where your IP is discoverable by sites you access). A good guide to IP leaks and how to fix them is here; for a quick check, try here.

Wednesday, May 11, 2016

Touch-enabled swipeable scroll bars

Looking for an elegant, functional scrollbar solution for the web?

If you google around, you'll find TouchSwipe and various other Javascript-based solutions. These, while impressive, are trying too hard. They all have issues, either with handling links within the scrollable area, or with stutters in the animation, or with unnatural (on iOS anyway) non-bouncy ending of the scroll. I had several issues I could never overcome, not to mention their large code size and complexity.

You want something that works on touch devices and non-touch devices and is flexible and easy. I found the solution to be CSS-based, and this is it. It works on any modern browser and IE 9+.

The key is that you need an enclosing container (scrollWrapper) with overflow hidden, and an internal container (scrollableArea) that scrolls within it, and is allowed to scroll using the native facilities.

Normally, on a desktop, using the native scroll facilities would mean that you'd get an ugly scrollbar, so you need to hide that, and this can be done in CSS. But you need to replace that functionality for non-touch users. That means adding buttons on the ends that can move the scrollable area (and could also mean enabling the mouse wheel). The buttons call javascript functionw that simply update the scroll position and allows CSS transitions to occur. On the codepen below I even include a tiny javascript plugin that enables scrolling horizontally with a mousewheel (vertically would be automatic).

The result is something that's totally natural and totally flexible, and actually much simpler than the javascript solutions.

You can see a demo of the resulting scrollbar here

The HTML structure is trivial:

<div class="scrollWrapper">
  <a class="scrollBtn prev">&lt;</a>
  <div class="scrollableArea">
    <!-- stuff to scroll here -->  
  <a class="scrollBtn next">&gt;</a>

The key part is this simple CSS code:
div.scrollWrapper {
 width: 96%;
 height: 91px;
 margin-left: 2%;
 position: relative;
 overflow: hidden;
 white-space: nowrap;
div.scrollableArea {
 position: relative;
 width: 100%;
 height: 125%; /* crop scrollbar (if applicable) outside scrollWrapper, while maintaining scrollability */
 white-space: nowrap;
 overflow-x: scroll;
 overflow-y: hidden;

Note that the height is 91 in order to fit 81px-high divs with 5px margin on top and bottom. The scrollableArea height needs to be about 20px higher than the scrollWrapper to ensure that the desktop scrollbar will be cropped off.

Sample CSS for the scroll buttons:
.scrollBtn {
  display: inline-block;
  position: absolute;
  margin-top: 5px;
  margin-bottom: 5px;
  top: 0px;
  height: 81px;
  width: 30px;
  line-height: 81px;
  text-align: center;
  vertical-align: middle;
  background-color: #444;
  opacity: 0.5;
  text-decoration: none;
  z-index: 100;
  font-size: 30px;
  font-weight: 700;
  outline: none;
  cursor: pointer;
.scrollBtn:hover {
  opacity: 0.7;

  transition: 0.3s;
.scrollBtn.prev {
  left: 0px;
} {
  right: 0px;

Finally, here's javascript to handle the buttons and (optionally) enable horizontal scrolling:
$('a.scrollBtn.prev').click(function(e) {
 var scroller = $(".scrollableArea");
 scroller.animate({scrollLeft: scroller.scrollLeft() - (scroller.innerWidth() - 91)});

$('').click(function(e) {
 var scroller = $(".scrollableArea");
 scroller.animate({scrollLeft: scroller.scrollLeft() + (scroller.innerWidth() - 91)});

  * Enable scrolling an element horizontally using up/down mousewheel events
  * (when over the element). Amount is the number of pixels to move per
  * wheel turn (default 120) 
$.fn.hScroll = function (amount) {
 amount = amount || 120;
 $(this).bind("DOMMouseScroll mousewheel", function (event) {
  var origEvent = event.originalEvent, direction = origEvent.detail ? origEvent.detail * -amount : origEvent.wheelDelta, position = $(this).scrollLeft();
  position += direction > 0 ? -amount : amount;

Monday, March 28, 2016

Git server setup on Amazon AWS EC2

This post describes how to set up a secure git server on an Amazon EC2 instance, although this basic approach should work with any cloud provider that allows you to easily create an ubuntu virtual machine (instance).

Before beginning I should note that this setup is optimal for those who need a simple, secure git server for a small number of users. If you need a more complete collaboration environment or can tolerate a less secure footprint, you might look at gitlab, which has pre-configured AMIs (except for the govcloud), or a private setup on a service like github.

Obviously, you'll need to set up an Amazon AWS account, which is quite easy. Then you create an instance using default the AMI for Ubuntu (using HVM virtualization). A t2.nano suffices. Make sure that the port for SSH (22) is open to any IPs you might use. 

I chose to use two volumes. One with the root image (unencrypted, magnetic storage), and a second, encrypted volume to serve as /home and contain the repositories, for added security. You could skip this if you want but it will be less secure.

After the instance has launched, ssh into the public IP using the key from amazon and the ubuntu username.

First update the system and get git:
sudo apt-get update
sudo apt-get upgrade
sudo apt-get install git

Now as root (sudo su -), create a filesystem on your second, encrypted volume:
mkfs -t ext4 /dev/xvdb
e2label /dev/xvdb encrypted_home

Mount it and move the home directories to the encrypted volume:
mv /home/ubuntu /
Add line to /etc/fstab
LABEL=encrypted_home /home ext4 0 0 1
Try to mount it as it would at boot-up:
mount -a
Run mount to check it's loaded
mv /ubuntu /home
check with another terminal that you can still log in.

Create a user and home directory for git
sudo useradd -m -d /home/git -U git
sudo su git

Setup ssh for git:
mkdir ~git/.ssh && chmod 700 ~git/.ssh
touch ~git/authorized_keys && chmod 600 ~git/authorized_keys

Ideally, for small numbers of users, each user should create their own secure key pair on their local machine (you might consider other solutions for large userbases):
ssh-keygen -f ~/.ssh/securegit -C 'Secure Git' -N '' -t rsa -b 4096 –q
chmod 600 ~/.ssh/securegit
If you have many users, you could consider a solution like gitolite.

Users can then edit their ~/.ssh/config to add the following entry to the top (create the file if it doesn’t yet exist):

Host secure-git AMA.ZON.IPA.DDR
User git
Ciphers blowfish-cbc
Compression yes
IdentityFile ~/.ssh/securegit

This will configure their ssh client to use the key they just generated whenever connecting to the server’s IP (replaced for AMA.ZON.IPA.DDR) with user git. It also creates an alias ‘secure-git’ for the IP, enables strong ciphers and compression for the SSH session.

Users can then provide the admin user with their public key. Back on the git server, for each user's public key
cat >> authorized_keys
Have them test that they can ssh into git@secure-git with another terminal

Next, repositories need to be added. As git user (sudo su git -):cd
mkdir project.git
cd project.git
git init --bare

And now, let's lock down git access (also as git):
mkdir ~/git-shell-commands
cat >~/git-shell-commands/no-interactive-login <<\EOF
printf '\n%s\n\n' "You've successfully authenticated, but interactive shell access is disabled."
exit 128
chmod +x git-shell-commands/no-interactive-login

As ubuntu:
sudo echo `which git-shell` >> /etc/shells
sudo chsh git  `which git-shell`

Make sure that when you reboot, everything still works. You're now set up with a secure git server in the cloud. For long term use, you can change this to a reserved instance to save on fees. In addition to the EC2 instance, you'll be paying for the storage of the two volumes and outgoing traffic to the internet. 


If you mess up at a late stage in setup and lock yourself out of your instance (ie, if you misconfigure SSH or cause it to fail to boot; at an early stage, just delete it and start over), you can mount the root volume on a temporary instance and fix the damage, as follows:
  1. Create a new ubuntu instance and stop the original ubuntu instance.
  2. Detach the root directory volume from the original instance. Attach it to the new instance as /dev/sdf. Also detach the secure home volume.
  3. Mount the volume to the new instance: sudo mount /dev/xvdf1 /mnt  (see available volumes with lsblk)
  4. Fix whatever you broke on the old volume under /mnt and then sudo umount /mnt. Stop the instance.
  5. Unfortunately you cannot re-assign this volume to the original instance's boot device. You need to create a new instance cloning the original. Start by creating a snapshot of this fixed volume. (Volumes, right click->create snapshot)
  6. Also create a snapshot of your secure home volume.
  7. Create an AMI of the fixed root snapshot. (Snapshots, right click->create image). Use hardware-assisted virtualization. Add the secure home volume as the snapshot for the second volume (as /dev/sdb).
  8. Now create a new instance using this new AMI. (Instances, Launch Instance, find it under My AMIs). You should be able to access it again, and can reassign the elastic IP if applicable.
  9. If you wish, you can terminate the old instance, delete any old volumes and the AMI / snapshots you created (although the snapshots are useful backups and the AMI takes no space beyond the snapshot).

Saturday, February 13, 2016

Troubleshooting Verizon Fios Router WiFi Instability

My folks have a router model MI424WR-GEN3I which they rent from Verizon Fios.

Beginning in Fall 2015, after a year of good functioning, they began experiencing instability with the wireless portion of the router. Specifically, after a period of a few hours, days or weeks:
  • New wireless clients would fail to connect to the wireless network, even when the WPA2 password was correct.
  • As their leases expired, existing clients could not renew their leases and thus could no longer access the network either.

What is most bizarre about the situation is that the wired clients continued functioning normally. Ethernet works. Wireless stops working. This is not an issue related to the WAN connection or Verizon's servers. Quite a few issues have now been ruled out:
  • Radio interference, the issue verizon's help desk keep returning to cannot be the explanation:
    • They live in the exurbs and have little radio interference. The router is in the basement, shielded by concrete and soil.
    • Standing directly next to the router, no matter what device is used, does not affect one's ability to connect. When the router is exhibiting the issue, none can.
    • There is no notable change in the electromagnetic environment of the house, like a new microwave or other appliance, nor any pattern of outages happening when any electrical device is being used.
    • During outages, some devices continue to work for some time (eventually they just can't re-authenticate).
    • Both the router and other devices show almost no other networks in the area, all of which are weak. The signal strength shown by clients for the network in question is good, even when the problem is ocurring. It's not that the network can't be seen or is weak, it's that you can't (re-)connect/authenticate.
    • Changing the wireless channel being used has no effect.
  • Issues with the wireless clients:
    • This happens to portable devices (phones, iPads), laptops and different operating systems (android, iOS, windows). Eventually all are affected.
    • It is remotely possible that some incompatibility with some client device is causing the router software to bonk after some time, but the devices being used are all pretty standard, and it doesn't seem to matter which devices are on a network when outages occur.
  • Some kind of virus or something on a client
    • Verizon technicians seem to think this is a possibility, but even if some client did have one (and they almost certainly don't) I can see no way in which this should affect the wireless portion of the router (only) and go away after resetting it.
  • An issue with the specific Verizon router. This was my first thought, that probably something had caused the wireless radio to begin failing or some other hardware problem
    • Verizon has now replaced the router not once but twice, and both replacement routers began experiencing the exact same problem (and only that problem), after a matter of days. The only special configurations they had in common were:
      • Opening a single (SSH) port for forwarding, and of course some UPnP ports.
      • The existence of a wired client which regularly transfers data.
      • A custom WPA key and network name.
    • I should say that both the replacement routers were "refurbished" units, which may or may not have had any real refurbishment performed after customers returned them. I can only speculate about this, but given that the routers all pass a self-test even while exhibiting the problem, and that when you first turn them on they appear to work perfectly fine (the problem takes a minimum of a few hours to begin happening), it is quite possible that Verizon thinks nothing is wrong with them and is simply returning other peoples' broken routers to the next guy expecting that the real problem is incompetent customers returning perfectly good routers (I get the sense that's what the agents think anyway). 
    • All of these routers were, at the time of the issue, running firmware version 40.21.18.
  • Like I said, the internet connection continues working fine as can be verified via wired connection, so that seems to rule out issues with the ONT or other Verizon network infrastructure.
The issue can be "remedied" (temporarily, until the next outage randomly happens) by either turning off wireless radio from the router configuration software and turning it back on, or by resetting the whole router. ADDENDUM: When the issue happens, under System Monitoring -> Advanced Status -> "Full Status / System wide Monitoring of Connections", Wireless Access Point "Status" shows "Disconnected", even though under Wireless Settings, the wireless network is "On". It remains unclear what causes it to become "disconnected" or why it fails to re-connect.

This problem is very puzzling and remains unresolved. I'll most likely have to "resolve" it by buying another wireless router and plugging it into the Verizon router via ethernet, then disabling the Fios internal wireless capability. It's pretty frustrating that you have no choice to replace the Verizon router altogether.

Given the lack of great options, I'm asking you, dear internet, if you are seeing similar issues. I don't trust that Verizon will find them themselves, and Verizon agents appear to be well off the scent.

The only realistic possibilities I see are that:
  1. This is a common flaw that is either tolerated by customers or not correctly diagnosed, possibly since so few people use ethernet.
  2. I've really got bad luck and managed to get three routers which all exhibit the same problem with the wireless radio (possibly because they don't fix it when refurbishing units). A fourth time might be the charm.
  3. There was some automatic update to the firmware last fall and the new firmware (40.21.18) contains this bug. As I noted, it's possible the firmware might have some incompatibility with other implementations of the 802.11a/b/g/n protocol(s). But the most likely device that would be would be iPhones (the only new one on the network since the problems started happening), so again, you'd think lots of customers would see it.
Any comments or suggestions are most welcome.

Friday, October 2, 2015

DD-WRT on Netgear AC1450

As it comes, Netgear's AC1450 router is quite lousy, with buggy firmware, lots of crashes and limited throughput. However the internet figured out that the actual hardware is identical to the more expensive, better performing R6300v2 (AC 1750) router. It is possible to simply convert the router and use the R6300v2 router's firmware.

But we'll do even better and install DD-WRT's firmware, giving this inexpensive router better functionality than one costing several times more. If you want a DD-WRT router, this is an excellent choice. It's a dual band, dual network, 802.11ac router supporting 450Mbps (2.4Ghz) + 1300 Mbps (5Ghz) speeds (both 3x3 receiver-transmitter antennas), with two USB ports, one of them USB 3.0, 4+1 gigabit ethernet ports, a fast dual-core 800Mhz (ARM v7) processor, 128MB flash and 256MB RAM. You can find it new or refurbished on Amazon*.

Although hard to find, the steps to open up the capabilities couldn't be easier. Here's the summary:

1) Download the two files from*/netgear-ac1450/, where * is a release that seems to work well according to users of the dd-wrt forums (I used 09-28-2015-r27858 and have not seen issues).

2) If the router is not new, reset first by holding down the red button on the back for 10 seconds. From the stock firmware web GUI choose manual (advanced) setup, and login with the admin user/password printed on the bottom of the router. Then choose router update. Select the factory-to-dd-wrt.chk file and flash. (Continue anyway if it says it's installing the same version).

3) The router will reboot and open the DD-WRT web GUI. Don't set this up (apart from the mandatory username/password). Just go to Administration -> Firmware Upgrade. Select the second file, netgear-ac1450-webflash.bin and flash with reset to default settings.

DONE! After rebooting, you now have a great, fast full-featured DD-WRT router. More information about DD-WRT and how to set it up for your needs is available on the DD-WRT Wiki page.

* Really appreciate if you purchase via these links as I'll get a small commission at no cost to you.

Wednesday, September 30, 2015

"Improving" Sony Xperia Z1 Compact D5503

It was time for a new phone since my old one has unfortunately kicked the bucket. Luckily I found the Sony Z1 compact, which is totally badass and an amazing bargain given the specs. It's available on Amazon (also in white, pink, or lime green).* Really happy with my purchase so far.

Mine came carrier unlocked so any SIM card will work -- that's an absolute requirement for me as I travel a lot. On previous android phones, I would install a custom ROM (version of Android) in order to rid myself of the carrier and manufacturer bloat and add functionality. However, Sony's version of Android is streamlined and I like it so far. Plus, unlocking the bootloader (which is necessary to use a custom ROM), although easy to do, has downsides. It may void the warranty and more importantly reduce the quality of the camera and break anything requiring DRM. Plus custom ROMs may not have all the useful features Sony has, particularly power saving modes.

However, it's possible to root the phone without unlocking the bootloader. You'll have the stock ROMs and experience with a rooted phone that you can largely customize. In particular you can install the XPOSED framework to install XPrivacy, which like Privacy Guard in CyanogenMod allows controls over app permissions. It also allows me to run apps like AirAudio that require root. And at a pretty basic level, with root I can back up the phone.

My Z1 Compact was loaded with Android 4.4.4 Kitkat.
This guide will root the phone and upgrade it to Sony's stock Android 5.1.1 Lollipop, without wiping any software/settings

** UPDATE 2/14/2015 with the latest versions of apps and how to root if you're already on Lollipop (5.*) **
** UPDATE 12/7/2015: it is possible to upgrade to the latest firmware version 14.6.A.1.236 using this procedure (in step 7). If you already had upgraded to rooted 5.1+ you can just do step 7+ to get the latest firmware. This update includes the stagefright 2.0 fixes. (If you use Xposed be sure to get the latest version of that as well.) **
  1. Download the latest flashtool software and install it. (You can get a head start by now downloading the firmware needed in step 7.1)
  2. Once installed, go to flashtool's drivers subdirectory and run the drivers installation found there. Choose flashmode and flashboot, along with drivers for the Z1C. It'll likely take a few minutes.
  3. My phone shipped with build number 14.4.A.0.157 of Kitkat (you can see this under Settings->About Phone). Unfortunately the "one-click" root solution doesn't work for this version or any other above 14.4.A.0.108. Instead we'll downgrade to .108 and root. If you're already at .108, skip this step. 
    1. Depending upon what version of Android your phone came with:
      1. If you have KitKat (Firmware 14.4.* / Android 4.4.*) then you can downgrade the kernel (only). Download the zip file from this guide and unzip the .108.ftf file.
      2. If you have Lollipop (Firmware 14.6.* / Android 5.*.*) then you must install the whole .108 firmware. This can be found here. You may have to use File->Switch Advanced, and select to wipe userdata (You will lose your user data in this case!) for step 4, in order to be able to boot.
    2. Put the .ftf file into the .flashTool/firmwares directory under your home directory (Eg, C:\Users\username\.flashTool\firmwares).
    3. Enable developer mode by tapping 7 times on the Android Build under Settings -> About Phone. Then under Settings -> Developer options, enable USB debugging. And under Settings -> Security, enable Unknown Sources.
    4. Run Flash tool; click the lightning button, select Flashmode. Select the A.0.108 kernel firmware file and hit Flash. Then follow directions to power down and attach your phone to the computer, while holding the volume down button until the flash process begins.
    5. Once complete, unplug the USB cable, close flashtool, and turn on the phone.
  4. Root the device using "one click" solution from here (in windows, the tool included in the zip from last step should work as well but is older). 
    1. Ensure USB debugging and unknown sources remain enabled, as above.
    2. Run install.bat in windows or on mac/linux.
    3. Wait until it tells you to connect the device via USB, and then do that.
    4. Now, wait until it tells you "Device Rooted", dismissing any prompts on your phone if they appear.
  5. Now that you can, backup using online nandroid backup software (get and install it and required BusyBox from the Google Play Store). Save all backups to external SD and/or computer. This includes the TA partition that is wiped if you bootloader unlock. To just backup that critical partition (needed to allow you to restore stock at some point if necessary), there's also this tool.
  6. Install dual recovery using installer. A recovery is like a custom BIOS that enables easier flashing of ROMs and recovery from errors. With this package you get two; you can open clockworkmod recovery by pressing the up arrow after the green/purple light flashes during bootup, and the TWRP recovery by pressing the down arrow. Sometimes one is needed rather than the other.
    1. Download installer (or newer) from here. This version can be used both to install initially and later to flash.
    2. Unzip it (but keep the .zip for later) and run install.bat/ Choose (2) rooted with SuperUser. Connect phone when prompted and wait until complete. Reboot phone.
  7. Upgrade to Kitkat using this guide to create a pre-rooted firmware.
    1. Run flashtool to download the firmware version you want (14.6.A.0.368 or 14.6.A.1.236 either customized for your region or generic) by clicking the XF button, finding it and downloading by clicking its name on the far right, selecting to unpack automatically. This takes a while as it is big. Once complete, it will be in your .flashTool/firmwares directory.
    2. Download SuperSU
    3. Download PRFCreator, unzip it and run it.
      1. Choose the FTF file you just downloaded in flashtool.
      2. Choose the SuperSU binary you just downloaded.
      3. Choose the you downloaded previously for the recovery.
      4. Select all of the checkboxes except "sign zip" (including "legacy mode" which is below sign zip) and click "Create". This will take a while.
      5. It will appear in the PRF directory as Copy this to the phone/SD card.
    4. Install the pre-rooted firmware.
      1. Reboot your phone into TWRP recovery by pressing the down arrow after the green/purple light blinks during bootup.
      2. Go to wipe, advanced wipe, choose dalvik cache and cache and wipe (maybe unnecessary but doesn't hurt).
      3. Then return to main menu and install. Find the file and install it.
      4. Once again wipe dalvik and cache.
      5. Then reboot to system. It will take a while as the new OS is configured and apps are optimized. Don't fret, all this optimizing means the apps will run faster later on. The NFC firmware will also be updated. 
  8. Done! You now have a rooted phone with a locked bootloader running Lollipop 5.1.1!
To optionally install XPrivacy:
  1. Via the browser on your phone, download and install the latest XPosed Installer app from (I used 3.0-alpha4). It won't work yet.
  2. Download the latest Xposed framework zip to your phone from the same link. The Z1Compact requires the 32-bit ARM version. For Android 5.1.* it's SDK22 (if you updated to 5.0.* instead, use SDK21). I used (SDK23 is for 6.* which likely won't be available on the Z1 compact).
  3. Reboot the phone into TWRP recovery by hitting the volume down button once the green/purple LED lights up during boot. Install the xposed SDK file zip you just downloaded and reboot to System. The Xposed Framework is now installed, the next bootup will take a while.
  4. On your phone, Now visit and download and install the latest XPrivacy APK. Reboot the phone a second time.
  5. Go into Xposed installer, under modules, enable XPrivacy. Reboot the phone.
  6. XPrivacy can now be configured.
If you're a bit hesitant about all the steps, this can be a useful video to get the idea of how the tools work (though it's outdated and following a different procedure).

Thanks to: SlikToxic, WaleDac, Jamal, zxz0O0, and Muuuly who first found the components of this solution. And to all the linked app developers!

* Really appreciate making your purchase through these links as I'll get a small commission at no cost to you.